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Robbing bees: questions and answers

What is robbing?

Robbing is a term used to describe honey bees that are invading another hive and stealing the stored honey. The robbing bees rip open capped cells, fill their honey stomachs, and ferry the goods back home. They will fight the resident bees to get to the stores and many bees may die in the process.

When does robbing occur?

Robbing can occur anytime during the year, but it is most evident in the late summer or early fall, especially during a nectar dearth. Robbing can often be seen in the early spring as well, most frequently before the first major honey flow.

Why does robbing occur?

Honey bees are compulsive hoarders. They will collect nectar or honey from any source they can find, and that includes a poorly guarded or weak hive. Personally, I think “looting” is a better description because, like human looters, they tend to prey on the weak and vulnerable, especially a hive with a problem.

Think of it like this: It is a hot August afternoon. It hasn’t rained in weeks. The flowers are long past their peak and the few that remain are crispy. A gang of bored workers with too much time and not enough to do is hanging out, looking for trouble. Suddenly, one of the gang picks up on a scent . . . sweet! It’s coming from a nearby hive where the beekeeper has spilled some syrup. A few scouts check it out and believe they can overpower the lethargic guard bees lounging in the heat. Within minutes the dancers post directions on CombBook and the siege is on.

How can I recognize robbing?

Sometimes a weak hive will suddenly come to life. You, a new beekeeper, are ecstatic because a hive you thought was dying is now thrumming with activity—bees are everywhere. You think the colony has finally turned itself around. But when you go back the next day, no one is home. The honey frames have been stripped clean, bees lie dead on the ground, and the small colony is decimated.

At other times, the signs are more subtle:

  • Fighting bees tumble and roll—sometimes on the landing board, sometimes in the air.
  • Dead bees lie on the landing board or on the ground in front of the hive.
  • Robbing bees can often be seen examining all the cracks and seams in a hive, even at the back and sides.
  • Robbing bees are often accompanied by wasps that are attracted to the dead bees as well as the honey.
  • Some of the bees in the fray may appear shiny and black. This appearance is created when the bees lose their hair while fighting. Both attackers and defenders may have this appearance.
  • Robbing bees never carry pollen on their legs.
  • Robbing bees often sway from side to side like wasps, waiting for an opportunity to enter the target hive.
  • Pieces of wax comb may appear on the landing board as the robbers rip open new cells.
  • Robbing bees are louder than normal bees.
  • Because robbing bees are loaded down with honey when they leave the target hive, they often crawl up the wall before they fly away and then dip toward the ground as they take off. This may not be immediately obvious, but if you study them for a while, you can see it.

What can I do to prevent robbing?

It is much more effective to anticipate robbing and take preventive measures than to try to stop it once it starts. Here are some strategies that may work—at least some of the time.

  • Reduce entrances at the first sign of a nectar dearth. Bees can successfully defend their hive if they have a large enough population and a small enough entrance.
  • Many beekeepers have observed that Italian bees rob more often than other sub-species. If you keep Italians, you should be more vigilant.
  • It appears that queenless hives are more vulnerable to robbing than queenright hives. Make sure all your hives are queenright as robbing season approaches.
  • Entrance feeders seem to promote robbing more than other feeders, probably because the food source is so near the hive opening. Use some other type of feeder during nectar dearths.
  • Small or weak hives are particularly vulnerable. Consider combining such hives before a nectar dearth.
  • Commercial robbing screens are highly effective devices that allow the resident bees to get in and out while discouraging the robbers. These can be especially valuable for use on weaker hives that you do not want to combine.

What can I do to stop it?

Once it starts, stopping a robbing frenzy is not easy.

  • Smoking will not stop robbing, but it will give you a reprieve while you close up the hive. Get the smoker going and set it next to the hive while you work.
  • Reduce entrances to a very small opening. Some beekeepers stuff grass in the entrance—a technique that keeps out the robbers but allows some airflow.
  • If robbing is really intense, you can simply close up the hive opening with hardware cloth or screen in a size the bees cannot get through (#8 or #10 work well). Close up the hive completely for several days until the robbers give up. If necessary, be sure to provide feed, pollen, water, and ventilation for the confined colony.
  • A water-saturated towel thrown over the hive confuses the robbers but allows the hive residents to come and go from underneath the towel. Evaporation from the towel keeps the hive cool.
  • Install a robbing screen. This device re-routes the hive residents through an alternative entrance while the robbing bees, following the scent from the hive, continue to butt into the screen.
  • Some beekeepers spread a commercial product such as Vicks Vaporub at the entrance to the colony. This product contains strong-smelling compounds such as camphor, eucalyptus oil, and menthol that mask the hive odor and confuse the robber bees.
  • Some beekeepers recommend removing the lids from all the hives in the apiary. The theory is that the bees become so busy defending their own hives that they stop robbing other hives. However, if the robber bees are coming from somewhere other than your own apiary, it won’t work. Also, it will do nothing to stop wasps and other predators from entering your hives at will. This is not a good strategy for an inexperienced beekeeper.



Reggie Rodriguez

Thanks for the informative post! I’ll be smiling about CombBook all day now!
-Reggie, 2nd year beekeeper in Petaluma, California


Great advice! Some yellow Italians tried to rob my dark bees recently because their own hive was very low on stores. Luckily my bees saw them off.


This is the best, concise treatment on robbing that I’ve found. Thanks!


I had this just last week. Italians robbing, or attempting to rob, my Carniolans. I was feeding them to be sure of enough winter stores for a southeastern Idaho winter. I removed the entrance feeder and put a vented cover on the main entrance, leaving only the small 3/4-inch top entrance open. This did the trick. Many of the little blond Italians perished in the incident. I concluded that my newly acquired (early summer) colony, which went queenless much of the time, was doing well enough that I don’t need to continue to feed them. The robbing stopped by the 2nd day and now life is back to normal. I learn a lot from these bees every day!


Rusty, I sure m having a hard time figuring out whether I m seeing robbing going on or a bloom of new workers.

I seem to have a lot more activity at a hive that was a package I installed early April and see a lot of behaviors for robbing you describe. The only thing I do NOT see are dead bees or fighting going on. I see lots of bees carrying pollen landing and entering with all the other bees, but no fighting.

At this point I have put on an entrance reducer with the smallest opening until I can figure out what is really happening.

Does not seeing fighting/dead and/or pollen carrying bees returning and entering rule out robbing?


My guess it that it is not robbing, but a lot of bees taking orientation flights. About three weeks after package installation, your first bees would be born. Those bees would be nurse bees for a week or so, but as they get older they become foragers. As new foragers, they circle around the hive in ever expanding circles in order to learn their whereabouts. Without Google Maps, they have to learn the terrain the hard way. Robbing can happen in the spring, but it is not nearly so common as it is the fall. Lack of fighting doesn’t rule out robbing, especially if the hive is weak, but I think you are seeing normal spring activity.


Thanks Rusty, it does appear it was new foragers after further observation and checking on it yesterday afternoon.



I put up a robbing screen on the lower entrance and screened over the upper entrance. The robbers hover and crash into the screen and eventually give up. It was amazing how well it worked.


I have a problem, I am a first year beekeeper and I think my hive is being robbed, I have tried reducing the entrance, placing a wet sheet over the hive and placing a screen over the entrance. There is still fighting, I have also noticed that at any given time there are 5+ bees that are not able to fly and they are wiggling their abdomen. I have no idea what’s going on please help!



Are you talking about a new hive as in a few weeks old? Are you feeding them syrup or something that will attract robbers? Are you sure they are fighting? Are the bees not flying on their backs or on their feet? Are their abdomens up in the air? Just trying to get a clear picture . . .


Rusty, I got the nuc last July and all looks very healthy. I have not fed them, I left all of the honey for them and there was some left last month, with some un-capped honey and there is a lot of pollen going in. They look like they are fighting, they actually attack, sometimes two or more against one. They are just crawling around on the ground and are buzzing like they want to fly. Their abdomens are down and curled looking. I took pictures today of some of the dead. It looks like a couple of different types of bees and a drone.



That certainly sounds like robbing. Other bees probably caught the scent of the uncapped honey and are trying to get it. I wouldn’t worry about the bees on the ground. That’s pretty common and normal, although I don’t know exactly why it happens. As soon as the nectar flow starts, the bees will be busy with foraging and the robbing should stop. In the meantime, it sounds like you are doing everything right.


We reduced the opening to 1-2 bee size, but it has been in the 60-70’s here in Eastern WA and today I came home to a beard. We took off the reducer and they went in and there was no fighting. Ahhh I can sleep tonight! Thank you. 🙂


One of our hives was robbed absolutely dry and all of the pollen has been snatched, too! The queen is still there and there is a lot of capped brood. Should we pop the feeder back in there? If so, what ratio of sugar to water to ensure they can at least build some stores? Thanks!



At this time of year I would go with 2:1.



I am a first year keeper too. And our winter in Oz was extremely cold and although my hive was very healthy and had a lot of capped frames prior to winter, my hive had died over the colder months. I went away on holidays for the winter and came back to a nonactive hive and when opened I only found 30 or so of my bees bundled in the very middle of the hive. There was still plenty of capped honey frames and no brood anywhere. I have taken out almost all of the frames with honey and cleaned up any that had signs of worms or anything other than healthy bee frames. (Found a colony of slugs in the bottom of the hive as an example.) I have left the hive down to one box with only very little honey inside. And immediately there was all this activity the next day (beginning of spring here) but I am positive it is only robbers.

Is there any chance that a new hive will swarm or some of the robbers may stay and start a new colony? What is the best next steps for me to take? Do I just close it up and buy a new package? Since it’s spring could I possibly trap a new swarm in there?

Please help.



A recently used hive make an excellent “bait hive.” If there are swarms in your area, you have a good chance that one will find your hive and move in. That said, many beekeepers increase the chances of it being found by adding a lure of some kind. I’m sure you can buy a commercial lure in Australia, or some people smear lemongrass oil on the landing board or put a few drops inside the hive.

Whether you catch a swarm has a lot to do with how many colonies live in your immediate area, and it’s entirely possible you won’t catch one, in which case you might want to buy a new package.


Hello there. I have a question about robbing. This is my first year beekeeping and so far it’s been a bitter sweet experience. I started with 2 hives this year, one of my hives swarmed last week (I don’t think I gave them enough space) and then it was shortly after. But my other hive I think was being robbed as well the next day. There was a lot of activity going on outside of the hive and some fighting. I checked inside the other day and noticed there was no bees in the bottom chamber, yellow jackets were going in and out at the entrance as well… My bees seemed to be hanging out in the brood box above the main chamber, it looked like there was now only 2 frames of bees in the hive but they have 16 deep frames full of capped honey.

They definitely don’t seem to be defending the hive entrance anymore. I blocked everything off hoping they will start defending again eventually. I’m not sure what type of bees mine are. They are grey to black so I was thinking they are carni. Not sure if this has anything to do with there small population now because this was a very active and seemingly strong hive or if they simply just been getting beat up by raiders.

Any suggestions would be highly appreciated, thanks!



By the time the wasps are freely moving in and out of the hive, things are in bad shape. You did the right thing by blocking the entrance, but now you should check to see if the queen is alive. Sometimes the wasps will kill the queen, and then your hive is in trouble. Also, you want to protect all that honey or it will be stolen if the bees can’t defend.

Two frames of bees going into winter doesn’t sound promising, regardless of the type of bee. Carnis keep smaller winter nests, but that is really small. Like I said, the first thing would be to look for your queen and see if there is any brood.


My goodness, your site is wonderfully helpful!

I have a quick question. About how long (on average) does it usually take bees to get used to having a robbing screen on the hive? I put one of the Brushy Mt robbing screens on a hive about three days ago (early in the morning before the bees were out) and there is still a pile of bees behind the screen trying to get out, and very few coming and going through the small top entrance. We are nearly into fall down here in the deep south, but there is still some pollen coming in. I had two hives robbed out completely last year, so I’m a bit paranoid. 🙂

Thank you!



I kept robbing screens on two small hives most of the summer and they still like to hang around behind the screen. They look like they’re stuck there, but the hives are functioning just fine so I don’t worry about it.


Thank you so much for your quick reply! I just went ahead and put robbing screens on all of my hives and will not worry if they do not all seem to “get it”. Thank you so much for all you have put into your fantastic site, and for taking time to help others.


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