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How to make a cut-down split

A cut-down split is a special technique often used by comb honey producers. The purpose of a cut-down split is to maximize the number of foragers that are bringing in nectar by minimizing the amount of brood a colony has to care for.

With little brood to feed, foragers concentrate on bringing home nectar rather than pollen, and nurse bees without brood responsibility soon become foragers as well. The result is lots of honey in a short period of time.

Timing of a cut-down split it important. To be effective, the cut-down should be completed just before the start of a main nectar flow. No matter how well you organize the split, it won’t produce more honey if there is no nectar to collect.

To make a cut-down split:

  • Find the queen.
  • Place the queen and nearly all the open brood, honey, and pollen in a new hive. Make sure these frames are covered with nurse bees to care for the open brood.
  • Leave the capped brood, one frame of eggs, and a small amount of honey and pollen in the old hive. At the same time reduce the number of brood boxes in this old hive by one and add empty honey supers. (So if there were three brood boxes, cut back to two. If there were two brood boxes, cut back to one. Add supers after cutting back the brood boxes.)
  • Place the new hive in a different location so all of the foragers return to the old hive.

I know this is confusing, so try this:

Old Hive in Original Location: New Hive in New Location:
No queen Old queen
Capped brood Uncapped brood
One frame of eggs Remainder of eggs
Nurse bees to cover Nurse bees to cover
Small amount of pollen Most of pollen
Small amount of honey Most of honey
All the foragers No foragers
Reduced number of brood boxes Normal number of brood boxes
Increased number of honey supers Normal number of supers

After you are set up, this is what happens:

  • The old hive won’t swarm because it doesn’t have a queen or young brood.  The colony will raise a new queen from the eggs, but by the time the colony is strong, swarm season will be mostly over.

o   This old hive has many more foragers and nurses than are needed to care for the one frame of eggs. In addition, all the capped brood will soon hatch and replace the nurse bees.

o   Because the hive is now crowded (due to the reduced number of brood boxes) many of the newly hatched nurse bees will move into the supers and start building comb—even in comb honey supers.

o   The old nurse bees will also become foragers, but since there is little brood to care for, pollen needs will be low. So the huge crop of foragers will collect nectar like crazy and make a lot of honey in a very short time—which they will store in the newly build comb.

  • The new hive won’t swarm because there are no foragers. It will take several weeks to build up a foraging force.

Rusty
HoneyBeeSuite

Comments

Monex
Reply

I transferred one frame of brood from my strong hive to the weak hive. I also added a patty of Dadant brood builder to each last weekend, laid across the top of the frames in the second super. Where I am now: one hive is very strong and I recently added the 2nd deep super for brood stores.

Leigh
Reply

In the cut-down split instructions, does “new location” mean somewhere else in the bee yard or a new bee yard altogether? THANKS for all the wonderful info you share on your site!

Rusty
Reply

Hi Leigh,

I mean a new hive close by, in the same apiary. Sorry for the confusion.

Aram
Reply

Rusty,

I noticed that whenever the bees are lacking brood of different ages, I have almost no traffic at the landing board. It is as if they are in the “save energy” mode. They don’t add, they don’t spend. They are just demoralized. Should I add 2 frames of brood, or a laying queen, and 3 hours to a day later they are back to work like you won’t believe.

Is it just my perception, or you notice that in the queenless cut down hive too? Maybe the key is a bunch of hatching brood, I don’t know. It seems I get better crop with unaltered colonies.

I guess my question is what is the key difference that makes cutdown split actively forage compared to a normal queenless hive with reduced brood volume.

Jeffrey
Reply

Can the new hive be located a good distance away as long as it is within the range of the apiary? In my situation I would like the new hive located a few hundred yards away. I imagine the foragers would still return to the original hive, correct?

Rusty
Reply

Jeffrey,

The foragers will return, but otherwise it should be no problem.

Stan
Reply

In regards to the cutdown split, after everything is done what do you do with the extra brood box that was taken away after reducing. If they were both full of brood and eggs what do you do?

Rusty
Reply

Stan,

The extra box and/or frames can be put on the new hive in the new location.

Nathan C
Reply

Making splits soon and replacing the old queens with new purchased queens, can I use the cut-down split for honey production and use new queens in the old and new hives?

Rusty
Reply

Sure, Nathan. It should work great.

Jason
Reply

Any reason why their two colonies could not be recombined after the flow to maintain number of colonies and be stronger for winter?

Rusty
Reply

No, no reason.

Jason
Reply

Ok, so I made a cut down split but could not find my queen. I’m planning on going back into both hives to look for eggs in 3 days. My question is this. If she is in the original hive, is 3 days of egg laying going to ruin the effect of the cut down?

Jennifer (South Alabama)
Reply

Good Morning Rusty,

In mid February I had a hive that was very crowded. They over wintered very well and I decided to do a cut down split. I wanted this hive to be my “comb honey hive”. I made a cut down split following the directions above. After a week, I had several queen cells. I removed all of the queen cells and and gave the hive a fresh frame of eggs from another hive (as instructed in the post about how to manage for comb honey). After a few days, I checked on their progress. They had not even attempted to make queen cells from the eggs that I gave them. They were very calm, which I thought was odd. I gave them a few more days, but still no queen cells on the frame that I gave them. I then went through the whole hive looking for cells, thinking that I may have missed one initially. I found nothing. The hive is still very crowded and calm. I added another 2 frames of eggs and checked after a few days. Still nothing! I looked though the hive again. No eggs, no queen and no evidence of queen cells anywhere in the hive. At this point, I am kinda panicking. I have offered 3 frames of eggs and they have not attempted to make a queen. I made sure that there were plenty of new eggs on the frames that I gave them. Why would they not try to make a queen, if they are queenless? Wouldn’t they start building queen cells as soon as they are put in the hive if they need a queen? How long should I wait until I intervene and add a queen/queen cell from another hive? The only thing I can come up with is that maybe I missed a queen cell initially and they have a queen that is new and maybe I missed her on inspection? Maybe she was out on a mating flight when I inspected? Maybe she hasn’t started laying yet? Any thoughts?

Rusty
Reply

Jennifer,

What did you do with the queen cells you removed? Did you give them to the queenless split? If you did, you probably already have a queen in there. If she’s still a virgin, she wouldn’t be laying eggs and she might be hard to see. It sounds to me like you already have a queen.

Jennifer (South Alabama)
Reply

When I initially made the cut down split I moved the original queen to new hive. At that point, the original hive started making queen cells. I did not need a queen and I did not have any available nucs to put the cells in, so I just destroyed them. I replaced that frame with a frame of fresh eggs to let them begin new queen cells. My understanding is that this process makes them more eager to make a nice queen and delays the process for a little while. This gives the cut down more time to gather honey, correct? I obviously missed one of the first queen cells because a week or so after I posted on this thread, I found a small virgin queen! Boy was I relieved! We had had several days of rain, so maybe that delayed the queen a bit? The hive is doing great and they are drawing/filling beautiful white comb in my foundationless shallow super!! I was really worried, but the bees knew what they were doing, even though I was not sure what I was doing!

Thank you for such a wonderful and informative site!

Rusty
Reply

Jennifer,

Well, that’s a different take on it, but I’m glad it worked out. I never destroy queen cells under any circumstances because the risk is great that you will end up queenless. You want to get a new queen in there ASAP, and not wait. Otherwise, you could get laying workers or some other mishap. Just my two cents. See https://honeybeesuite.com/destroy-extra-queen-cells/

Jennifer (South Alabama)
Reply

I was trying to follow your instructions in this article: https://honeybeesuite.com/how-to-manage-your-bees-for-section-honey/ (the “replacing the old queen” paragraph), while also following the instructions for doing a cut down split. I was really nervous about the whole thing, but it all worked out. Thank you so much for all of the wonderful information on your site.

Rusty
Reply

Thanks, Jennifer, I’m glad it worked out.

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